London Fashion Week - Tata Naka SS15 Presentation.
16th of September, 2014.
It is official, London
Fashion Week has sadly come to an end and has now moved on to Milan. However,
before it all ended I travelled to the Royal Academy of Arts in Piccadilly to
the Tata Naka SS15 collection presentation. I kept up to date with
the prior shows and presentations so I was eager to see what Tamara and Natasha
Surguladze, the designers and founders of Tata Naka, had to offer.
Standing in front of their own monochrome screen were the models, presenting the first of the Tata Naka garments. These models made quick outfit changes every ten minutes to exhibit a brand new set of outfits.
Standing in front of their own monochrome screen were the models, presenting the first of the Tata Naka garments. These models made quick outfit changes every ten minutes to exhibit a brand new set of outfits.
Colours
If I were to explain the
palette of the collection in one sentence, I would say, “minimalist monochrome
to floral flash”. It begins with black and white, though, due to the different fabrics
and shapes, there are variations in the garments of black and white tones. Black
and white begins to merge creating monochrome outfits. This is apparent with
several two-piece garments.
The first pop of colour you
see is hot pink, and by see I mean you cannot take your eyes off! This first
appears as a tailored suit and shortly after a poodle skirt dress with open
shoulders. This dress is one of my favourite garments because of the bright
colour and fun wearable shape.
The first signs of pattern
occur with a light cream empire line dress, where we see stitched on top of the fabric are
floral inspired ruby red blobs. From here on, the colours and patterns take off
and become far more detailed. A beautifully tailored sky blue poodle dress
comes to centre stage covered in large purple flowers with green leaves. These
three colours are the definition of spring and the rebirth of life. A warm
yellow suit stands beside the dress creating a summer portrait. This time, very
small purple flowers and green leaves covered the suit and likewise create a
summer scene.
These floral patterns take
a step further as part of a tailored white dress, where the skirt rapidly displays
purple, yellow and red flowers. A black dress similarly has its waistline with deep pink and red roses. These two flower patterns are seen again later
but this time as three slightly different full-length maxi dresses.
When you think it cannot
get anymore vibrant, two electric blue garments waltz in; a bare shoulder
jumpsuit and pleated dress. Upon these garments the floral theme has
evolved to resemble Hiroshige inspired flowers; a blossom tree print. If I was too pick one garment to take home with me, it would be that very jumpsuit; comfortable, fun and perfect for spring/summer.
The final stage of
collection brings together the build up of colour yet retreats back to the
large floral blob embellishment seen once before. Three sheer dresses are exhibited in three
slightly different ways. Upon an electric blue shift dress an arrangement of
blossom flowers and leaves are assembled so that models body is concealed.
Another dress demonstrates an empire line and assorts flower blobs over the
dress in the same manner as the previous. The final dress reminds me of
Halloween; a sheer black dress with spiky orange and purple flowers lay in
front of green stems.
Silhouettes
Similar to the pallet and
tones of the garments, the silhouettes evolve during the two hours. They start
simple and wearable, yet the silhouettes are tailored with excellent precision.
The garments share a swirly
design that appears numerous times as the collection unveiled. The swirls are
apparent with the necklines of the dresses that look like puddles of paint.
These swirls are taken to the hemlines too, which resembled the dripping of
paint down a canvas. Not to go unnoticed are the shoes; the swirl feature forms
around the mid part of the foot as if the feet had stepped into paint. A peep
toe and open at the arch shoe with the same design were also apparent. This
feature exhibits one of Tata Naka core inspirations of painting, as they paint
to become inspired for their fashion designs.
These swirls were taken
further and began to resemble the cuts of a pattern craft scissor. As if cut
right around the midriff of a dress, a coordinate crop top and skirt were
formed. The next time the “scissors” were cut vertical down a tailored top and
skirt, creating a fun formal suit.
The next dominating
silhouette is the fine pleating of the garments. This design started off being a secondary part of the tailored forms; creating definition to the midriff
of the first white dress or the hemline of the coordinate piece. The simplicity
of the colour put emphasis on the pattern creating shadows and depth to the garment.
This figure was taken
further and became the core part of several garments. A yellow maxi dress
parades pleats for the bottom half of the garment. A midnight blue uses the
pleat design as its skirt yet keeps the top flat.
The shift maxi dresses replace
the pleats as the core design of the garments to bold patterns. The dresses begin
to fall so that the material pleating gently by itself and not with an iron.
Texture and Material
Tata Naka SS15 presents
several materials and textures. Since the silhouettes start tailored, the material
resembles suit fabric; firm yet comfortable, creating a strong finish. This
allowed Tata Naka to show off their excellent skill of bringing together
interesting design and craftsmanship.
The pleated segments of the
attires are formed from a more sheer material, allowing the pleats to remain
tight and create a light flow. This texture is seen as aspects of garments,
skirts and dresses.
The sheer and transparent
pleats are brought together with the dense sturdy texture talked about before.
For example, the sturdy white shift dress with sheer floral pleats as its
skirt. When the sheer pleats are placed upon the dense skirt materials, they
become less sheer with little definition. However where the sheer material
hangs alone we see far more shadows and highlights, creating texture and
characterisation.
An electric blue jumpsuit
and dress seem to be created from a velvet material. The electric blue already appears
warm yet the soft puts emphasis on this.
On the other end of the spectrum,
the final sheer garments have a far more cool feeling. Dresses suited for a
sunny day at the beach allow you to remember the experience of the sea breeze
over your body.
When I look at garments I see them from two different angle; I see them for what they are as a piece of art or I see them as a piece in my wardrobe. The tailored pieces were delightful. I loved the grace of the recurring paint effect and how it was used to create suits to dresses. Three pieces I would pick to put into my wardrobe would be the pink poodle dress, the electric blue jumpsuit and the yellow floral suit.
An outfit that I love for the sake of the art and creativity would be the final "halloween" dress. As a conclusion to the collection it is interesting; it went back to the black and brought together the bright colours it had built up to. The big black pants look quite fun!
Thoughts
My thoughts may be biased as this was my first at London Fashion Week and any Fashion Week! I enjoyed the experienced immensely because I was introduced to a whole new way of viewing and encountering fashion. For the collection, I thought it was wonderful.When I look at garments I see them from two different angle; I see them for what they are as a piece of art or I see them as a piece in my wardrobe. The tailored pieces were delightful. I loved the grace of the recurring paint effect and how it was used to create suits to dresses. Three pieces I would pick to put into my wardrobe would be the pink poodle dress, the electric blue jumpsuit and the yellow floral suit.
An outfit that I love for the sake of the art and creativity would be the final "halloween" dress. As a conclusion to the collection it is interesting; it went back to the black and brought together the bright colours it had built up to. The big black pants look quite fun!
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